Georgie Anne Geyer
Thursday, January 8, 2009
World history is filled with dramatic, often heartbreaking and 
occasionally redemptive stories of great marches.
There is Moses, prophetically leading the Jewish people through 40 years 
of wandering in the desert. There is Mao Tse-tung's Long March of 
communism in China in the 1930s, not to speak of the tragic westward 
marches of many American Indian tribes, pushed from their lands by the 
likes of us.
But this week, we should be seriously noting another march, one of the 
most powerful and strangest in history - a pulsating movement of 
guerrillas conquering a small and exquisite island exactly a 
half-century ago with tactics and intentions never seen before. We talk, 
of course, of Cuba and about Fidel Castro and his men, moving 
systematically across a supine country that first week of January in 
1959 to change the world.
Editor and journalist Carlos Franqui, one of the finest writers of that 
revolution, recalls the singular moment as the "guerrilleros" of the 
revolution came down from the mountains. "Night falls as we, the 
'barbudos' come down from mountains looking like the saints of old," he 
recalled afterward. "People rush out to meet us. They are wild. ... This 
was a real New Year's party, and a charge of collective joy ran through 
the rebels. One of them, though, felt nostalgic, as if he had left the 
one thing that mattered most to him back in the Sierra: Fidel Castro."
Before this march, the world had seen Fidel as either a communist or 
simply another, if unusually charismatic, democratic reformer. But as 
his bedraggled, but victorious, mountain men marched across the island 
to take Havana, he was revealed as something new: the supreme new-style 
revolutionary of the 20th century, a man who could manipulate the Cuban 
people's hatreds and guilt with a masterful hand not seen since Adolf 
Hitler or Josef Stalin, and a leader who would systematically cause more 
problems to the hated "Americanos" next door than any leader on Earth.
It was a strange week. The first day after the dictator Fulgencio 
Batista fled that early New Year's morning, Fidel's men, in a raging 
frenzy, attacked the parking meters in Havana - the symbol of privilege 
of the "ancien regime." French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre called them 
"peasant soldiers ... who carried into the cities their warlike 
austerity and country moralism." Fidel, playing on the guilt of Cubans 
who had not taken part in the revolution, told them, "Now, we are going 
to purify this country."
But by the end of that week, Fidel was in Havana and many began to see 
him for what he really was: a mystical, magical, punishing, unscrupulous 
leader. And the crowds - his "masas"- were everywhere, shouting as in 
collective orgasm that seemed never to stop, "FIDELFIDELFIDELFIDEL!"
To John Topping, the political officer at the American Embassy in 
Havana, "That guy knows how to press the button."
Today, Fidel is unquestionably an invalid, but still he rules the 
country through his smaller, quieter, less charismatic brother, Raul. 
Probably roughly a third of Cuba is still emotionally pro-Fidel, about a 
third is very anti-Fidel and the other third is in the middle.
The country is falling apart, saved for the moment by 100,000 barrels a 
day of subsidized oil from Fidel's leftist counterpart in Venezuela, 
President Hugo Chavez, and recently by a renewed interest in Cuba on the 
part of Vladimir Putin's anti-American government in Russia.
Hope? That extravagant and emotion-ridden march of half a century ago 
was literally exploding with hope. Yet, for the 50th anniversary, Fidel, 
who has not appeared in public since major and still mysterious surgery 
more than two years ago, only sent a brief greeting to the Cuban people. 
Even today, although he never goes there anymore, his office remains 
unchanged. He remains the icon, the caudillo, the saint, remote and 
still untouched.
It was left to Presidente Raul to soberly deliver the latest bad news. 
"Let's not kid ourselves," he told the Cuban people, "by believing that 
from here on it's all going to be easy. Maybe from here on it's going to 
be more difficult."
As to any future relations with the United States, he has left that 
question far more open than his brother did. In a recent interview in 
the Nation by actor Sean Penn, Raul noted that, "We've had permanent 
contact with the U.S. military, by secret agreement, since 1994." But 
only issues related to Guantanamo Bay are discussed, he said. The two 
countries also conduct joint emergency-response exercises.
Any hope for a change in relations with President-elect Barack Obama? 
What would be his first priority should a meeting take place there? 
"Without a beat," Mr. Penn related, "Castro answers, 'Normalize trade.' 
" Again, and not surprisingly, the U.S. embargo on sales to Cuba, 
imposed at the height of rage with Cuba in 1962, is primary.
But Raul Castro also tells Mr. Penn something new. Mr. Penn relates Mr. 
Castro as saying: "Let me tell you something. We have newly advanced 
research that strongly suggests deepwater offshore oil reserves, which 
U.S. companies can come and drill. We can negotiate. The U.S. is 
protected by the same Cuban trade laws as anyone else. Perhaps there can 
be some reciprocity." So, yes, there are whispers of change, which an 
Obama administration could explore.
With his march across the island, Fidel consolidated a mesmerized Cuban 
people and bound them to his charismatic figure in a manner history has 
seldom seen. But today there are no more marches in Cuba, only the 
suffering that almost inevitably comes after such grandiose and 
dangerous expressions of fealty to one man. "Maybe when Fidel dies ... 
." That's what everybody says now.
One hates to be optimistic about Cuba and the United States after so 
many misunderstandings and so much suffering between them, but my 
feeling is that, with Raul's more reasonable temperament, that's a 
"maybe" that may be closer and more possible than we think.
Georgie Anne Geyer is a nationally syndicated columnist and the author 
of "Guerrilla Prince: The Untold Story of Fidel Castro."
http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2009/jan/08/change-stirring-in-cuba/
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