Mon Jan 8, 11:00 AM ET
For several decades now, Cuba has been an alluring, yet mostly forbidden
destination. Just a few dozen miles across the Caribbean from Florida,
it has nevertheless been isolated by years of U.S. economic sanctions,
which include most forms of tourism.
Recent events in Cuba, however, suggest that Cuba might be in for big
changes over the next few years. Curious to know more about the future
of travel to Cuba, I contacted Christopher P. Baker, who writes the
impressively comprehensive guidebook Moon Handbooks: Cuba, which is now
out in its fourth edition. Baker is also the author of the
award-winning Cuba travelogue, Mi Moto Fidel, and he has visited Cuba
more than 30 times.
Fidel Castro is in ill health, and there has been plenty of speculation
on what will happen when he dies. In your opinion, how will Castro's
passing affect travel and tourism in Cuba?
Christopher Baker: If the U.S. retains its current policies, not much
will change. I do believe that [Fidel Castro's brother] Raul is going
to begin economic liberalization, which together with the boost in
international exposure will surely give a shot in the arm to tourism
from outside the U.S. However, the Democratic victory in Congress has
shifted the balance of power towards key congressional figures that
favor lifting the travel restrictions and even the embargo. I believe
we're going to see initiatives that will result in a bill to that effect
landing on Bush's desk. If he signs, the gates are finally going to
open and we'll see a tremendous rush as tour operators, cruise ships,
and the like announce their new programs. Independent travelers are
also going to go in droves.
Americans' ability to visit Cuba has been in constant flux over the past
couple decades. What advice would you give to Americans interested in
traveling to Cuba? Any warnings or precautions?
CB: Although travel by individuals has been restricted for many years,
only limited enforcement of the restrictions took place. The Bush
administration has been chasing down transgressions forcefully, and
there is now a strong likelihood that individuals traveling to Cuba
without a license will face a fine if identified by U.S. Treasury. Only
a few very specific categories of individuals can request licenses (e.g.
journalists, athletes, Cuban-Americans visiting immediate family, etc.),
but even here there are certain restrictions.
Cuba itself has no such restrictions. Anyone traveling to Cuba without
a license should make their reservations for travel to Cuba separately
from their reservation for air transport to whatever Cuba gateway they
choose (Mexico, Canada, Costa Rica, Panama). Cuban authorities are
known to occasionally stamp an innocuous looking symbol on page 16 of
U.S. passports (sometimes it's a small ship, or even a house) and this
seems to be a tip-off for U.S. immigration authorities. Who knows why!
Havana is such a famous city that many people associate it with Cuba
itself. What are some other classic Cuban destinations, for those
looking to see the country beyond the capital?
CB: Havana is a fantastic destination and can fill a two-week itinerary.
It enchants and can hold visitors spellbound to the point that they
never leave to explore the rest of the isle. Two places stand out
beyond the city confines.
The colonial city of Trinidad, a four-hour drive from Havana, is a
UNESCO World Heritage site, with cobblestone streets and plazas that
have changed little since the town was in its heyday hundreds of years
ago. The setting is magnificent, built on a hillside with the Sierra
Escambray Mountains behind, and the Caribbean Sea to the fore a mere
five kilometers or so away. The city is full of museums and traditional
music venues. Best yet, it now boasts a classy hotel in the heart of
the city, and more than 200 casas particulares (private room rentals),
some of which are historic gems full of antiques.
The other classic destination that should be on everyone's itinerary is
the Valle de Vinales. This stunning valley is known for its
sheer-faced, flat-topped limestone formations, which lend a dramatic
physical presence. Vinales is also a major center for tobacco
production, and the sleepy village life is a centenary time warp where
ox-drawn ploughs and farmers on horseback are the norm.
At the far eastern end of the island, Santiago de Cuba (the
second-largest city in Cuba, and the nation's first capital) has its own
remarkable flavor. Dating back four centuries, it is blessed with
historic buildings in an architectural style entirely apart from Havana.
In later centuries, an infusion of French émigrés and black slaves
from Haiti lent the city unique airs. Santiago is the birthplace of
traditional son music (think Buena Vista Social Club) and Tumba Francesa
and other age-old musical forms. It's also a gateway to Baracoa, a
sleepy town (Cuba's oldest) built in a bay entirely enclosed by
mountains. The most scenic of Cuba's cities because of its backdrop, it
is popular among backpackers, who settle into laid-back rhythms, with
breaks for hiking in the mountains.
I've heard that two of the big challenges in traveling to Cuba are food
and transportation. What strategies might you suggest for finding good
meals in Cuba, as well as getting around the country effectively?
CB: Food is Cuba's weak link. Havana now boasts a good number of
quality restaurants with a wide variety of international cuisines, but
you usually pay through the nose, including at private restaurants,
where some of the best food is served. Most of the restaurants serving
satisfying fare serve tourists, and places where Cubans themselves dine
offer a few basic standard dishes that can soon become boring to foreign
tastes. Beyond Havana, things go downhill quickly. Moreover, food
shortages are ubiquitous (beyond the foreign-run hotel resorts, most
restaurant managers rely on state bureaucrats to deliver the goods — or
not). There are very, very few stores selling food, and most often this
is limited to canned and dried goods.
However, every town and village has its farmers' market where fruits and
vegetables are sold for mere pennies (it's good to have some local pesos
for this — not the pesos convertibles that are the currency of
tourists). Simple pizza and ham-and-cheese sandwiches are common at
small street stalls in towns, but the flies hovering are a good
indication of the hygiene issues associated with eating at these stalls.
Cuba's ice cream is excellent. All towns have ice cream stores.
The transportation situation is dire for Cubans, though tourists are now
well served. Modern air-conditioned Volvo and Mercedes buses span the
country, offering efficient and cost-effective travel for tourists to
most of the key destinations in the island. This service is called
Viazul. The hit-and-miss national train service also spans the island
and is not unduly expensive (less than $60 one-way between Havana and
Santiago de Cuba, 15 hours), but the trains are not reliable, are not
kept clean, and can be overly air-conditioned. Flying is to be avoided
as much as possible due to safety concerns — Cuban airlines are
notoriously unsafe and the concept of passenger service is not understood.
Car rental agencies are found throughout Cuba. Rates are somewhat
higher than you might pay in the U.S. or Canada, but overall, the fees
remain competitive with international rates if you purchase an unlimited
mileage package with insurance. The problem here, though, is threefold:
1) Most cars are not well maintained and fall apart quickly. Safety is
an issue with vehicles older than two years.
2) All the competing agencies are state-owned and treat renters with a
mafia-style disdain. Scams are built into the renting process, and
getting a problem serviced can be akin to living through a chapter in a
Kafka novel. The Rex Agency, which is a joint foreign partnership, is
usually far more efficient and considerate to renters than other agencies.
3) A tourist is often found culpable in any accident involving injury or
death. In the case of the latter, tourists are not allowed to leave the
country, and if found guilty, will most certainly face a jail term.
Still, renting a car offers the greatest flexibility and is the way to
go. Just drive cautiously!
More information on Moon Handbooks: Cuba ($24.95) can be found at
Moon.com. Christopher P. Baker's Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling Through
Castro's Cuba ($14.00) is available at www.travelguidebooks.com.
http://travel.news.yahoo.com/b/rolf_potts/20070108/rolf_potts/rolf_potts19298
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