Communist Cuba cashes in on its rich colonial past

Communist Cuba cashes in on its rich colonial past
Posted : Tue, 08 Dec 2009 03:10:24 GMT
By : dpa
Category : World


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Havana - The Caribbean island of Cuba is investing heavily in its
heritage after years of letting its buildings go to rack and ruin. There
are now plenty of boulevards, handsome old house and theatres to be
admired and the charm of Cuba's colonial past is not only to be found in
the capital Havana either. There is scope for nostalgia in other cities
too, ranging from Cienfuegos and Trinidad across to Santiago de Cuba in
the east.

Admittedly, a lot remains to be done and visitors will find the contrast
between old and new particularly crass in Havana. Between the golden
dome of the Capitol and the cathedral numerous groups of workmen toil
away, yet just a few streets farther on, staircases, roofs and even
whole house are propped up with timber scaffolding lest they collapse
completely.

Those who stray from the well-trodden tourist paths in Havana will still
come across much neglected architecture and scruffiness and will no
doubt frequently ask themselves: "Doesn't anybody collect the refuse
around these parts?"

Trinidad on the south coast is a perfect relic of the early days of the
Spanish colony, a virtual open air museum with a wealth of preserved
streets and buildings.

Tourists from all over the world dine on octopus or chicken with rice
and beans to the sound of groups like Trinitarios. Naturally the
musicians play evergreens like Guantanamera and numerous songs in honour
of the late revolutionary leader Che Guevara.

Streets of renovated one-storey houses fan out from the Santisima
Trinidad cathedral, all of them festooned with pictures of Che and
political slogans with facades decorated with wrought-iron and flowery
bowers.

Trinidad was founded in 1513 by seafarer Diego Velazquez de Cuellar and
flourished until the first half of the 19th century during an era when
the sugar barons ruled the roost. The Valley of the Sugar Mills just
outside the town offers lush vegetation and a glimpse of former
plantation glory and like the old quarter of Trinidad, the location is a
UNESCO world heritage site.

Trinidad is popular but seldom overcrowded and visitors soon find
themselves strolling alone among the picturesque squares, courtyards and
cobbled streets with their tranquil fountains. One such refuge is the
"Casa de la Cultura" where Susana Garcia displays her paintings. In the
House of Literature close by visitors can relax while browsing the
bookshelves or watching a game of chess.

The historical centre of the seaport and industrial city of Cienfuegos
enjoys protection from modern development too. "That really gave tourism
here a boost," said Maria de los Angeles Guillen who runs a local
three-star hotel. A double room for the night costs 60 euros (90 dollars).

Her meagre foreign currency reserves do not run to providing expensive
imported hams and cheeses for breakfast but she and her staff more than
make up for this by their friendliness and a wide range of delicious
local produce.

In the evenings both locals and tourists who want to eat out are spoilt
for choice. There are dozens of restaurants and cafes along the main
boulevard and in the neo-classical theatre around the Parque Jose Marti
a performance of Carmina Burana is about to begin. Next door a comedy
troupe and a jazz band are raking in the applause. Entry to these
amusements is free of charge.

Over at the eastern end of the island in Cuba's second city Santiago, a
sweet melody drifts through the night from the "Casa de la Trova" in the
Calle Heredia. The singer is recounting the woes of an impoverished lover.

Santiago de Cuba has more of an ethic blend than almost any other city
on the island and is famed for its musical heritage, having spawned
styles such as Son which became known worldwide through the film Buena
Vista Social Club.

Many visitors come to the so-called "heroic city" of Santiago in search
of traces of the revolution. Cuban icon Fidel Castro attempted to depose
dictator Batista on July 26, 1953 by storming the Moncada garrison but
his forces were repulsed by troops loyal to the government.

Castro survived to take his place on the town hall of the balcony six
years later from where he proclaimed the triumphant revolution. The
Cuartel de Mocada is now one of the many museums in the former island
capital.

Elsewhere, towns such as Holguin not far from the beaches of the
northern coastline, Guardalavaca or sleepy Baracoa in the far east offer
colonial boulevards, parks and authentic Cuban atmosphere galore.

Havana remains nevertheless the essential stop on any tourist itinerary
since it contains the most extensive relics of Spanish colonial presence
with countless baroque and neo-classical buildings. Restoration in the
Habna Vieja is advancing rapidly, thanks in the main to one expert,
Eusebio Leal.

The communist official with entrepreneurial skills has known for two
decades now that lovingly created historical buildings and squares act
as a magnet for tourists and bring much needed foreign currency into the
country which in turn enables more preservation work to be carried out.

At present the Plaze Vieja,one of the oldest market squares in Havana,
is being restored to its former glory. Most of the buildings are already
completed and in the nearby "Taberna de la Muralla" beer is brewed on
the premises. For those who like their refreshment even cooler, the
"Escoria" ice-cream parlour opposite has delicious ice cream with
brittle pecan chunks, a slice of cheese cake and a Cappuchino coffee.

DPA

Communist Cuba cashes in on its rich colonial past : World (8 December 2009)
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