By Pete Clark, Evening Standard
Published: July 07, 2007, 00:04
Apart from its famous cigars, Castro's country boasts a handful of other
attractions.
Saturday morning, on a small boat a few miles from Havana: We left the
Hemingway Marina some time ago with the idea of catching a marlin, one
of those fish with a long spike on its nose. Although the fishing seat
looked comfortable enough, it brought with it responsibilities.
A more appropriate resting place was to be found by the small cabin,
where a lookout could be maintained. The sky was blue, as was its mirror
image, the sea. Nothing happened for a very long time, nor did it need
to. Then, suddenly, as I gazed into the azure, there was a steel grey
flash and a great whining from the fishing line. The fisherman ushered
me towards the stern and indicated the seat with great enthusiasm.
Catch a whopper
Watching the speed with which the line was disappearing, I decided that
the fish would be in Jamaica before I could stop it. So I graciously
gave up the seat. Minutes later, the sleek fish was stretched out on the
deck. I went over the side for a swim to celebrate, though without
picking up great speed.
What was extraordinary about the whole affair was that we were almost
the only boat around. Looking towards land, there were great stretches
of unspoilt coastline. There were no beaches as such, just unbroken
vegetation with, every now and then, a small building.
This is Cuba in its natural state. It is hard to believe that should
things change on this island, which is still communist, such wide open
spaces will survive for long. The seasoned traveller might expect to see
hotels and all the associated amenities, but under Castro, there are
hardly any. After him, who knows?
Back at the marina, my fishing companion Simon and I were received like
heroes before being elbowed aside in the rush to photograph the marlin.
Even in such uncrowded waters as these, it seemed these fish are not
often caught. Having been spurned, we retired to the café to wait for a
taxi back to town and to try on the paper toques we had been given by
the chefs in the restaurant next door, possibly in the mistaken belief
that we would be delivering them a big fish.
Diverse Cuba
From the start of the trip, Cuba had presented a series of diverting
spectacles. From our base at Nacional Hotel, a reminder of times when
the island was a hedonist's haven, we set forth on various expeditions
in a bright red, open-topped Chevrolet that could do 30mph before the
ashtrays began to rattle ominously. This is the way to travel if you
can. Walking, which I tried only once, is not recommended, for the heat
in Havana is intense, and it is hard to appreciate the crumbling
grandeur of the architecture when your eyes are stinging with sweat and
suncream.
Better by far to make for the shade. Although I am by nature not excited
when it comes to factory trips, this is the place to make an exception.
After the short and excruciating walk – cigar-rolling is a
labour-intensive business – entering the Partagas factory was a blessed
relief. The air was cool and the smell of tobacco leaves permeated every
room.
Options aplenty
Should the fine old tradition of the manufacturing of status symbols not
appeal, there is always the rum. The Havana Club Rum Museum offers a
gentle introduction to these processes, complete with potted history,
ending in a display where samples are arranged for the purpose of
comparing vintages.
There is also the seven-year-old, the blue label Barrel Proof and the
15-year-old. At some point during the tour of this museum, a Cuban band
appeared and played some heavenly music.
Needless to say, music is all over Havana and much of it designed for
the tourist and rather bland. The Buena Vista Social Club does not meet
every night. The best music I encountered — apart from what I heard at
the rum museum — was high-powered Cuban pop at the Tropicana. Think
Gloria Estefan, then treble it.
Possibly the most surprising feature of the trip was that the food was
of a high standard.
This has not always been true of Havana (I was the recipient of
excellent advice) but standards have improved and with the establishment
of such restaurants as Paladar L'Esperanza — on the upper floors of an
otherwise derelict building — which is privately owned, not to mention
La Cocina de Lilliam and the harbourfront Templete, decent food is back
on the menu.
Perhaps the best part of the day is towards its end, when the best plan
is to walk around Havana, sniff the air and enter any doorway that looks
enticing.
Every establishment will place something to drink in front of you, but
you must be firm and decline and settle for one of the excellent local
refreshments.
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