Wednesday, September 07, 2016

‘Kaputt’ - The Dreams of a Goethe Institute in Havana

'Kaputt': The Dreams of a Goethe Institute in Havana / 14ymedio, Yoani

14ymedio, Yoani Sanchez, Havana, 6 September 2016 – The word made me
smile. I read Kaffeeweißer – coffee whitener – on the tiny envelopes
near the coffee machine in a Berlin hotel, that promised to "whiten"
that dark beverage that was relieving my jetlag. I had forgotten how
direct and powerful the German language can be. For years, along with
the Cuban Germanophile community, I had awaited the inauguration of the
Goethe Institute on the island, but last week a report in Deutsche Welle
poured a bucket of cold water on our aspirations.

The longed for opening of the center that would let us observe German
culture was only a matter of time. In July of last year, the German
Foreign Minister, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, made the first official visit
of a German chancellor to our country since the fall of the Berlin Wall.
In May of this year it was followed by a visit of Cuba's Foreign
Minister, Bruno Rodriguez Parrilla, to the capital city of bears and

Like a diplomatic dance, we waiting impatiently for a step here, another
there and the prodigal handshakes for the camera. Meanwhile, we counted
the days until the country of Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel, Herta
Mueller and Gunter Grass would honor Havana with a center of the stature
and quality of the Alianza Francesa.

I've never found a word that is better at expressing the breakage of
something than the German word kaputt. To this, my language of dreams
and nostalgia, I owe the force of the verbal sledgehammer that Spanish
hides in sinuous constructions and compromises. This crack that means
"broken," and carries with it a sense of frustration, resonated in my
mind this Saturday when I read the declarations of the president of the
subcommittee on foreign policy for material culture, Bernd Fabius, about
the possible causes of the sine die – the indefinite postponement – of
the Goethe Institute among us.

"Cuba fears that with the Geothe Institute, which promotes the German
language and culture in the world, Germany will encourage the
counterrevolution," said Fabius, noting that the refusal "shows how
fragile the systems of such states perceive themselves to be."

The Cuban government has preferred that the "German dose" come through
its own educational institutions and under tight control. In the Faculty
of Foreign Languages at the University of Havana there is a lectureship
for teaching the German language, but the autonomy of a cultural center
– managed directly from Berlin – is not in its plans for now.

A real shame in a country where it is calculated that around 30,000
Cubans studied or worked in the German Democratic Republic while many
others have gone in recent years to live in this now united European
nation and there is a curiosity mixed with empathy for the Teutonic
culture, despite the distance and the marked differences in identity.

Bernd Fabius's conclusion about the fears of Cuban officialdom are not
too far from the real motive for freezing out the Goethe Institute's
project. Every place that is not under the strict rules of ideology,
that offers literature not filtered by the island's publishers, or
promotes a view beyond the borders of political blindness and the sea
that surrounds us, causes the Plaza of the Revolution to break out in hives.

Most instructive is that the German government has spent years "behaving
itself" so that it might make a sign with the name of the author of
Faust shine on a Havana street. More than five years of exploratory
feelers, plugged ears, caution, and maintaining a great distance from
any phenomenon that might upset the olive-green hierarchy. After all
this time invested to avoid hurting feelings, the Bundestag has received
a loud and clear nein, as can only be heard in the language of Nietzsche.

Source: 'Kaputt': The Dreams of a Goethe Institute in Havana / 14ymedio,
Yoani Sanchez – Translating Cuba -
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